Where I come from in the United States, this time of year means dressing up in costumes, carving jack-o’-lanterns, and watching scary movies. And of course going to the polls.
But in Peru, people have other traditions. Chief among them is the celebration of All Saint’s Day and All Soul’s Day on the 1st and 2nd of November. In Mexico, it’s called “Dia de los Muertos” or “Day of the Dead.” Peruvians prefer to use the word “difuntos,” meaning “deceased” or “departed,” which they view as slightly more respectful. Whatever you call it, it’s basically an occasion where people remember their loved ones who’ve passed on and celebrate their lives.
A few years ago, I got to experience El Dia de Los Difuntos when I took a trip to a giant cemetery in a poor neighborhood on the southern outskirts of Lima.
My image of a cemetery from back home was straight rows of gravestones amid neatly manicured lawns, but Cementerio Nueva Esperanza consisted of barren hillsides connected by jagged paths through the weeds and dirt. They were covered with haphazardly-placed crosses and brightly-painted burial plots stretching as far as I could see. The graves were specks of color on an otherwise drab and colorless landscape, and people wandered along the trails like ants in an ant farm. It was like a giant metropolis for the dead, and I was immediately struck by just how large it was.
Along with my friend Pablo, I spent the day walking around the cemetery, speaking to people who were paying their respects, and soaking in the celebratory atmosphere, which included plenty of food, alcohol, and all sorts of music.
On the latest episode of Far From Home, I take listeners along on my journey:
This was without a doubt one of the more fascinating and memorable places I’ve gone in my travels, so I’m thrilled to share my experience with all of you.
Thanks for listening!
Scott